I have previously written about the Four Roses OESO recipe and came away convinced that it may be my new favorite of the Four Roses recipes. OESO combines Four Roses’ low-rye mash bill with its “O” yeast strain, which Four Roses describes as producing rich fruit. In my prior review, I found that recipe brought together vanilla, cherry, dark and stone fruits, juicy fruit gum, baking spice, clove, and oak in a particularly rich and complete package. This Hokus Pokus Private Selection takes that basic profile and pushes it into an even more mature, luscious direction.
The color on this Hokus Pokus barrel is a nice, solid amber that is a tinge darker than usual for Four Roses. On the swirl, there is a big, thick film and substantial legs running down the glass, suggesting the rich texture that follows on the palate.
On the nose, this is definitely Four Roses, but with the emphasis squarely on vanilla and fruit. There is that familiar Four Roses character that makes these bourbons so recognizable, but this barrel has a particularly inviting sweetness to it. The vanilla is pronounced, while the fruit notes are darker and more developed than the bright cherry and juicy fruit notes I found in the standard 100-proof OESO release.
On the palate, the vanilla and dark fruit notes really dominate in a lovely way. Where juicy fruit gum notes are often present in OESO bottlings, in this barrel its is there but deep in the background. This is truly rich and luscious bourbon, with the fruit and oak feeling fully integrated rather than competing for attention. The lower-rye OESO recipe has always had the ability to bring a softer, fruit-forward profile, and this nine-year, three-month-old barrel shows just how good that recipe can be when it is given a little more time in the barrel.
The finish is really lovely. The dark fruit carries forward, joined by baking spices, clove, and lovely oak. The oak adds maturity and structure without turning the bourbon dry or overly tannic, while the clove gives the finish the same warm spice note that I enjoyed so much in my previous OESO tasting. It lingers nicely and keeps inviting another sip.
At $99, and with it being August before the fall limited-edition bourbons begin hitting the shelves, this is quite a refreshing find. Hokus Pokus has selected a barrel that shows off why OESO deserves much more attention from Four Roses fans, and why Four Roses started releasing red label 100 proof single barrels of this recipe. I have had a number of Four Roses barrel picks at cask strength in my time, and I just have to say this this one is truly special-an OESO where the juicy fruit notes take a back seat to really serious vanilla and dark fruit notes, with a nice spicy finish. This one will definitely be going on my living-room bar, where I keep the special whiskies.